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Build 

Hoiises 
an d Kites 


Published by 

successful Farming 

Des Moines, Iowa 
























BIRD HOUSES AND KITES 

ILLUSTRATED 

Published by SUCCESSFUL FARMING, Des Moines, Iowa 

10 CENTS PER COPY 

Copyrighted. H. W. CARMICHAEL, Author 


I N T R O D 

The purpose of this book is to give to boys and girls who live in the 
country, where most of the birds make their homes, some definite informa¬ 
tion about building these birds a house, that is easy to make, and suitable 
for birds to live in. 

In most localities the birds come back in the spring, and are unable to 
find a suitable nesting place due to the fact that much of the timber and 
brush have been cleared away to make room for a greater cultivation of 
the soil. 

The native birds are not so plentiful as they used to be due to the above 
facts and unless some artificial means is provided the farmer is going to lose 
one of his best friends and assistants. 

It is the author’s hope that this little book will inspire some boy 
to try his skill at bird house building, regardless of the scarcity of tools, 
and lumber. After you have built one house try and build several others, 
you can’t put up too many, and the birds will surely appreciate them. 
Every farm yard ought to be full of bird houses, and at least two feeding 
shelters should be provided, where the birds can be fed on cold early spring 
mornings, and in the winter. Many of the birds will stay with you the year 
around if they are given food, and a protected house in which to live. 

Birds are the only sure means of keeping down the steadily increasing 
growth of insect life that destroy crops and orchards. We must begin to 
realize that no birds mean no crops. 

Bird houses must be built to suit each particular kind of bird and should 
have dimensions to correspond with the original nests these birds are in the 
habit of building where no houses are provided. The table printed here is 
the same as the one published by the U. S. Department of Agriculture and 
should be followed when building a house for each of the different birds. 

Your bird houses can be as elaborate or as plain as you wish to make 
them. This book contains a few houses which are easy to make, serviceable, 
and according to government measurements. 


U C T O R Y 

Beginners should not attempt to build a large or fancy house. Try to 
make one of the small houses first and follow directions carefully. 


DIMENSIONS OF NESTING BOXES FOR VARIOUS SPECIES OF BIRDS 


Species 

Floor 

Qf 

cavity 

Dep th 

°f. 

cavity 

Entrance 

abpve 

floor 

Diameter 

of 

entrance 

Height 

above 

ground 

Bluebird.. 

5 by 5 

8 

6 

IX 

5 to 10 

Robin. 

6 by 8 

8 

* 

* 

6 to 15 

Chickadee. 

4 by 4 

8 to 10 

8 

IX 

6 to 15 

Tufted titmouse. 

4 by 4 

8 to 10 

8 

IX 

6 to 15 

White-breasted nuthatch . . . 

4 by 4 

8 to 10 

8 

1M 

12 to 20 

House wren. 

4 by 4 

6 to 8 

1 to 6 

X 

6 to 10 

Bewick wreD. 

4 by 4 

6 to 8 

1 to 6 

5 

6 to 10 

Carolina wren. 

4 by 4 

6 to 8 

1 to 6 

m 

6 to 10 

Dipper. . 

6 by 6 

6 

1 

3 

1 to 3 

Violet-green swallow. 

5 by 5 

6 

1 to 6 

1 Vz 

10 to 15 

Tree swallow. 

5 by 5 

6 

1 to 6 

ix 

10 to 15 

Barn sw allow. 

6 by 6 

6 

* 

* 

8 to 12 

Marlin. 

6 by 0 

6 

1 

2K 

15 to 20 

Song sparrow.. .... 

6 by 6 

6 


t 

1 to 3 

House finch. 

6 by 6 

6 

4 

2 

8 to 12 

Phoebe. 

6 by 6 

6 

* 

* 

8 to 12 

Crested flycatcher. 

6 by 6 

8 to 10 

8 

2 

8 to 20 

Flicker. 

7 by 7 

16 to 18 

16 

2H 

6 to 20 

Red-headed woodpecker.. 

6 by 6 

12 to 15 

12 

2 

12 to 20 

Golden-fronted woodpecker. . 

6 by 6 

12 to 15 

12 

2 

12 to 20 

Hairy woodpecker. 

6 by 6 

12 to 15 

12 

ix 

12 tev 20 

Downy woodpecker. 

4 by 4 

8 to 10 

8 

ix 

6 tc-20 

Screech owl.. 

8 by 8 

12 to 15 

12 

3 

10 ter 30 

Sparrow hawk. 

8 by 8 

12 to 15 

12 

3 

10 tc 30 

Saw-whet owl. 

6 by 6 

10 to 12 

10 

2H 

12 to, 20 

Barn owl . 

10 by 18 

15 to IS 

4 

6 

12 td 18 

Wood duck. 

10 by 18 

10 to 15 

3 

6 

4 to' 20 


*One or more sides open. tAll sides open. 


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Do not put up a bird house on a tree or barn facing the north. Birds 
as a rule will not use a house that faces in this direction. 

Before starting to build a bird house it is necessary for beginners to 
know a few of the fundamental operations in wood work, what tools to use, 
and how to use them. Always try to have what tools you do use sharp and 
in good condition. 

A good plan to follow in starting on the bird house is: 

1. Cut the lumber to a rough size. 

2. Square up the lumber to a finished size. 

3. Lay out and mark off the correct sizes and shapes of the different 
pieces on the finished lumber. 

4 Cut out the different pieces by following carefully the lines on the 
finished lumber with the saw and plane. 

5. Fitting and assembling the different parts. This must be carefully 
done and all joints must be tight. A bird house that is not dry inside, well 
ventilated and weather proof is not liable to be occupied by any of our 
feathered friends. 

The first house in this book is a simple little wren house that any boy 
ought to be able to make with a few tools, by following the directions care¬ 
fully. 

Do not be discouraged if you do not have any regular lumber. Get a 
box that is made of any soft wood, one-half inch thick. Take it apart 
carefully and you will have material that will do for the construction of any 
of these houses. 

Before starting to cut any lumber study the drawings carefully and try 
to keep in mind the following points: 

First—How the house ought to look when finished. 

Second—The correct shape and size of each piece. 

Third—How to make each part. 

Fourth—How to assemble the different parts. 

Fifth—Don’t forget, tight joints, good ventilation, and plenty of room 
are three of the most necessary things that go together to make a house 
that is attractive to the birds. 

When reading the finished dimensions on the lumber bill, thickness 
always comes first, then width, then length. Always go over your measure¬ 
ments before starting to cut the material. 

The drawings in this bird house book are all designed and simplified, 


so that any boy with a limited amount of material and tools who is a lover 
of birds, may be able to construct any of the houses by following the draw¬ 
ings and directions carefully. 

To cover the houses with bark, put the house together first, then nail 
the bark on with small brads. Be sure there are no nails sticking thru 
on the inside of the house. Always cover the roofs with roofing so they won’t 

Cak DIRECTIONS 

Cutting Stock. Cutting stock means getting the different pieces 
ready to make the house. Always cut out the large pieces first and allow 
the different pieces to be one inch longer and one inch wider than the 
finished size, so you will be able to plane or saw them to the finished size 
and shape. 

Squaring Stock. Squaring stock means to reduce a piece of rough 
lumber to one having flat, smooth sides, straight edges and square ends. 

Squared-up stock is called finished stock. Finished stock is a piece 
of lumber that has been worked out to any given thickness, width and 
length. 

Laying Out Work. To lay out work means to mark out the shape and 
sizes of the different parts on the finished stock. Always lay out the work 
on the best side of the finished stock and from the best edge. 

Cutting to Lines. Cutting to the lines or layout means to remove the 
stock outside of the lines, thus making the piece the correct size and shape. 

Assembling. Assembling means fastening the different pieces together. 
The most common way to put these houses together is with nails. Screws 
can be used if convenient. The place where two pieces come together is 
called a joint. A joint must always be tight and square. 

In order to keep the cats out of the trees containing bird houses, take a 
piece of sheet iron about two feet wide and long enough to go around 
the tree and fasten it to the tree trunk about six or eight feet above the 
ground with a few small nails. If you have no sheet iron, get a joint of old 
stovepipe, which will answer the purpose just as well. 


Herbert Hoover said: “I hope the people of the United States 
will be made to realize how closely related to this whole question 
of food-saving is the protection and encouragement of insectivor¬ 
ous and migratory birds. n 

3 — 



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WREN 


Material Required 


Lumber—White 

pine or cypress. 


Pieces 

Finished Sizes 

Use 

1 

h"x6 " xlO^" 

Back 

2 

y 8 "x3%"x6y 2 "_ 

Sides 

1 

^"x4M"x6" 

Front 

.1 

%"£5%"x7" 

Roof 

1 

y 8 " x 3y 8 "x5M" 

Bottom 

1 

5%"x7" 

Roofing 


134 inch brads or shingle nails. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, trysquare, saw, plane, marking gauge, brace, % 
inch and Y 2 inch auger bits, hammer, and screwdriver. 

Construction 

Cut out each piece rough and plane both sides smooth, plane both edges 
straight and both ends square. 

After cutting out and squaring the stock to the finished sizes, mark each 
piece as shown in the drawing—saw and plane each piece to the correct 
shape. 

The entrance hole in the front must be n / 8 inch in diameter, which is the 
correct size for a wren. If made larger the sparrows can get in and destroy 
the wren family. 

Don’t forget the one-half inch ventilation hole in the top part of the 
front piece and sides. 

Assembling 

1. Nail sides to back of house one inch below the top end of the back 
and even with the outside edge; nails should be driven thru the back of 
the house into the sides. 

2. Fit the bottom of the house between the sides and nail into place, 
keeping it even with the bottom ends of the two sides. 


HOUSE 


3. It is better to bore the entrance and ventilation holes before nailing 
the front to the house. Be sure and have the bottom edge even with the 
bottom of house and both ends even with the outside edge of the sides. 

4. Now carefully fit on the roof. The roof must be left loose, so the 
house can be cleaned. It can be made removable, either by hinges at the 
top edge or fastened on with a few one inch screws. 

Finishing 

The house is now ready for staining or painting and when finished should 
be nailed on a tree, post, or on the side of the house or barn about ten feet 
from the ground. If the house is fastened to a tree or post, a guard of some 
kind should be rigged up about two feet beneath the house, so the birds 
will not be disturbed by the cats. 

If the house is covered with bark from birch tree and the roof covered 
with rubberoid or any manufactured roofing it is liable to be more attrac¬ 
tive to the birds than a freshly painted house. Birds will not use a house 
that has an odor of fresh paint about it. Never paint or stain the inside 
of the house if you expect to get a tenant this year. 


The U. S. Department of Agriculture at Washington, D. C., has issued 
several bulletins on bird life under the following numbers: 

Circulars No. 56, 61; Farmers Bulletins No. 51+, 456, 497; Bulletins No. 
9, 15, 21, 23, 24; and Bulletins entitled “ How Birds Affect the Orchard” and 
“Birds as Weed Destroyers.'’ 

The National Association of Audubon Societies, 141 Broadway, New York, 
N. Y., has issued several leaflets under the following numbers, which tell about 
birds, their habits, feeding, etc. 

Leaflets Nos. 1 to SO, both inclusive; Special Leaflets Nos. 6, 14, 18, and 
a Bulletin entitled “The Audubon Societies in Relation to the Farmer.” 

Several of the Agricultural Colleges of the various states have issued simi¬ 
lar bulletins, such as — 

Bulletin No. 130 by the Kentucky Experimental Station, Lexington, Ky. 
Cornell Rural School Leaflet, Vol. 6, No. 2, Ithaca, N. Y. Bulletin No. 250 
by the Ohio Agricultural Experiment Station, Wooster, Ohio. 

5 — 




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WREN 


Here is a home for Mr. and Mrs. Wren that is artistic, and will not fail 
to attract these birds, if carefully made, and well placed. The roof may be 
curved, or straight, simply by changing the shape of the top-ends of the 
back and front pieces of the house. 

Material Required 

Lumber white pine or cypress. 


Pieces 

Finished Sizes • 

Use 

1 

H"x4%"x8" 

Back 

2 

H"x5^"x4%" 

Sides 

1 

H"x4^"x5M" 

Front 

1 

^"x3K"x3M" 

Bottom 

2 

H"x3y 2 "x5y 8 " 

Roof 


Hardware, Etc. 



One inch brads. 

One inch screws. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, square, saw, plane, brush, 7 /i inch and A A inch 
auger bits, hammer, and screwdriver. 

Construction 

Cut out each piece rough and plane both sides smooth, plane both edges 
straight, and both ends square. 

After cutting out, and squaring the stock to the finished sizes, mark each 
piece as shown in the drawing—saw, and plane each piece to the correct 
shape. 


HOUSE 


The entrance hole in the front must be % inch in diameter, which is 
the correct size for a wren. If made larger the sparrows can get in and de¬ 
stroy the wren family. 

Always bore the entrance and ventilation holes before putting the house 
together, and keep the ventilation holes well up under the eaves so draughts 
of air will not strike the young birds. 

The curve on the top of the front and back pieces for the roof to fit on, 
must be exactly alike. 

The two roof boards can be curved by soaking them in hot water for 
a few minutes, or hold them over the steam from a teakettle. They must 
be fastened on the house with screws in order to hold them down securely. 

Assembling 

1. Nail the sides on the edges of the back piece two inches up from the 
bottom end. Nail the front between the sides keeping the bottom ends, 
and sides exactly even. 

Always be sure the joints are tight before fastening these houses to¬ 
gether. The back of this house is made longer than the-front, and sides 
to allow for a means of fastening the house to a post or tree. 

2. Fit the roof on carefully, and screw or nail in place. Keep the back 
end of the roof even with the back of the house, and let the front ends 
of the roof project over as shown in the drawing. This protects the en¬ 
trance hole from the direct rays of the sun, and also keeps out the rain. 

3. Fit the bottom board in next, and fasten with a few small screws. 
This will allow you tb take out the bottom after the birds have gone, and 
give the house a thoro cleaning. 


7 — 


“The birds — that make sweet music for us all, 
In our dark hours — as David did for Saul.” 





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BLUEBIRD HOUSE 


Here is a bluebird house that will be attractive to the birds, if put up 
in a quiet spot and protected from cats and sparrows. 

Sparrows always are the first tenants in a new house of this sort, so 
you must watch and not let them become established. They drive away 
the more desirable birds. 


Pieces 

Finished Sizes—In. 

Use 

1 

y 8 "x7"xl7%" 

Back 

2 

y 2 "x7"xlQV 2 " 

Sides 

1 

V 2 "x 7"xl2" 

Front 

1 

^"x6"x7" 

Bottom 

2 

y"x5M"x8%" 

Roof 


Hardware and Tools 

Hardware—One and one-fourth inch brads, one inch screws. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, square, saw, plane, coping saw, brace, expansion 
bit, one-half inch auger bit, hammer, nail set and screw driver. 

Construction 

Cutting stock—Cut out all the pieces and square them up to the finished 
sizes given. Lay out and cut the curves on the sides and front very care¬ 
fully with the coping saw. Be sure and sandpaper these curves smooth 
before assembling the house. 

The top ends of the front and back pieces must be cut just alike, so 
the roof will fit on correctly. 


The bottom end of the back is left longer than the house to allow 
for fastening it to a tree or post. 

Make the entrance and ventilation holes in the front and sides, and be 
sure each piece is the exact size and shape required on the drawing before 
attempting to put the house together. 

Assembling 

1. Nail the sides on the edge of the back piece, keeping bottom end 
of sides and back even. (Follow the drawing carefully.) 

2. Nail the front of the house between the sides. Keep the edges even 
and be sure the joints are tight. The bottom of the front comes even with 
the top of curve tight. The bottom of the front and back pieces must be 
exactly in line in order that the roof will fit perfectly. 

3. Fit on the two roof boards and see that all joints are tight before 
nailing them in place. 

4. The bottom piece should fit between the sides, front and back, and 
.fastened in place with one inch screws, so it can be taken out when cleaning 
out the house. 

Be very particular with the curves on the sides, back and front, as the 
whole appearance of the house may be spoiled if these curves are uneven 
and not exactly alike. ^ 

Finishing 

Carefully sandpaper all the joints and curves even. Set all the nails, 
putty the holes and paint the body of the house white and the roof green. 

The house may be stained dark brown and the roof covered with roof¬ 
ing. It will be less liable to leak in rainy weather. 

Fasten the house to a tree or post about eight or ten feet above the 
ground and be sure it is protected from cats and squirrels. 


— 9 — 


4 



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ROBIN SHELTER 


Robins, barn swallows and phoebes will not occupy an enclosed bird- 
house, so we will have to provide an open nesting box to suit the needs 
of these birds. 


The design on the side and back of this shelter must be carefully marked 
out ike the drawing, and cut out with a coping saw. Sandpaper each 
piece smooth before starting to assemble the shelter. 


The drawing in this issue provides shelter for these birds, and can either 
be placed in a tree for the robins or under the eaves of the barn for the 
swallows and phoebes. 

Everyone who plants a garden this spring should have a family of 
robins close by to help exterminate the worms and bugs that destroy plant 
life. This shelter is easy to make if the directions are followed carefully. 


Pieces 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 


Material Required 

Finished Size—In. 
M"x7"xl2" 
M"xM"x 6M" 
^"x8"x8" 
y 2 "x 9"x9" 

V 2 "x 9"x9" 

y 2 "xy 2 "xQy 2 " 


Use 


Back 

Corner post 
Side 
Bottom 
Roof 

Roof strip 


Hardware, Etc. 

iy inch brads. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, square, saw, plane, hammer, and coping saw. 


Construction 

Cutting Stock. Cut out each piece of stock needed and square up to 
the finished size. If you do not have any lumber that is % inch thick, x / 2 
inch will do just as well, for the back and front post. 


Laying Out 

After you have squared up the lumber to the finished sizes, mark each 
piece the exact size and shape as shown on the drawing, and saw or plane 
each piece according to the lines, in order to get the pieces to the correct 
shape and size. 


Assembling 

1. Measure up 2 y inches from the bottom end of the back, and nail 
on the side. Keep the side and edge of the back piece even. 

2. Next nail on the bottom piece and be sure it extends the same 
distance past the back on both ends. Drive the nails thru the back of the 
shelter into the bottom, and thru the bottom of the shelter into the side 
piece. 

3. Nail the roof strip on the back iy inches from the top edge of the 
back and be sure this strip is the proper shape or the roof will not fit 
perfectly. 

4. Fit and nail the roof on next. The roof must fit on the side and back 
of the shelter perfectly tight, in order to be weather proof. To nail the roof 
on, drive the nails thru the back of the shelter into the top edge of the roof, 
and down thru the top of the roof into the side piece. 

5. The corner post is fastened on by nailing up thru the bottom board, 
and down thru the roof. 

Before nailing on this post be sure it is in line with the outside edge 
of the back piece, and be careful to have it the correct length. The appear¬ 
ance of the shelter will be spoiled if this post is too short, or too long, or if 
it is not in line with the outside edge of the back piece. 

Finishing 

Stain this shelter a dark brown or paint it a dull gray. If it is to be used 
for robins fasten it in the crotch of a tree about ten feet from the ground, 
and be sure it will be well shaded and protected from wind and rain during 
the nesting season. 

Sandpaper all the joints even, putty all of the nail holes, and stain the 
house a dark brown or green on the outside only. Cover the roof with 
good waterproof roofing, and follow the same direction for fastening to 
tree or post, as were given for the wren house on the preceding page.- 


— 11 


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— 12 — 


















































































































































































WOODPECKER HOUSE 


Here is a house that is designed especially for Mr. and Mrs. Wood¬ 
pecker. It is exactly the same kind of a house that the woodpeckers would 
build for themselves in a hollow tree. 

These birds are very beneficial to orchards because they live on the 
insects which destroy fruit trees. 

On account of so many of the dead trees being cut down these birds do 
not have a suitable place to build their nests. It is therefore necessary to 
furnish these birds with a nest box as near like the one nature furnished 
them, because this species of birds are fast disappearing. 


2. Take a piece of straight grained oak, hickory or walnut, about 6 
inches in diameter, saw one end off nice and straight and the other end on 
slant as shown in the sectional view of the drawing. Either saw or split the 
piece exactly in the center, then cut out the cavity with the one inch gouge. 
You can get the two cavities to match exactly by making a pattern or 
templet the size and shape shown in the drawing. By placing it on the 
pieces and marking around it both cavities will match after being cut out 
when putting the two halves together again. 

Assembling 


Material Required 

Lumber—Limb of an oak, hickory or walnut tree. Two pieces of white 
pine or cypress. 

Finished Sizes—In. Use 

Log 6" or 8" in diameter Body of house 
K"x8"x9" Roof 

H"x2"xl7" Back strip 

J^"x2"x4" Bottom strip 


Pieces 

1 

1 

1 

1 


Hardware, Etc. 

1^2 inch brads. 

1 inch screws. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, saw, plane, square, hammer, 1 inch gouge and 
screwdriver. 

Cutting Stock 

1. Cut out the roof, back and bottom strips and square up to the finish 


After cutting out the cavity carefully, be sure both sides are exactly alike 
and the two halves fit together nicely before fastening the log together. The 
two halves should be placed in a vise and clamped together tightly before 
putting on the roof and the bottom strip. These pieces should be screwed 
on so they may be removed after the nesting season and the house taken 
apart to be cleaned out. 

The back strip is nailed on to the house last. It is put on the back of the 
house to provide a way to fasten the house to a tree. 

Finishing 

Stain the roof, bottom and back strips a dark brown and nail the house 
in a tree from ten to twenty feet above the ground. 

Before putting this house up put about one inch of fine shavings or saw¬ 
dust in the bottom of the cavity, because when woodpeckers peck their 
own nests they always leave a certain amount of the fine chips in the bot¬ 
tom of the house. Then they finish their nests with feathers plucked from 
their own bodies, and they do not gather any other nest materials. 

Be sure and leave the bark on the piece that the body of the house is 
made of. 


13 — 



-Flicklr. Hguj»e- 


















































FLICKER 

A large number of these houses should be put up in orchards, for these 
birds, are one of the most valuable protectors of fruit trees that the farmer 
has to depend on. 

The flicker and woodpecker generally build their nests in a hollow tree, 
and are most particular about the kind of houses to build their nests in. 

We must therefore build a house that is as near like the one nature 
provides for them in a hollow tree as possible. 


Material Required 


Lumber—White 

pine or cypress. 


Pieces 

Finished Size—In. 

Use 

1 

V 2 "x 6"x20" 

Back 

1 

34"x6"xl4)4" 

Front 

2 

V 2 "xS"x20" 

Sides 

1 

34"x6"x6" 

Bottom 

1 

34"xio"xio" 

Roof 


Hardware and tools required: 134 inch brads; 1 inch screws. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, square, saw, plane, hammer, brace, 2 inch ex¬ 
pansion bit, coping saw and screw driver. 

(Note)—The expansion bit is for boring the entrance hole in the front 
of the house. If you do not have an expansion bit, the hole may be cut 
out with a coping saw or pocket knife. 

Construction 

Cutting Stock. Cut all the pieces according to the finished sizes given. 
The curves on the two sides must be carefully marked out before cutting 
out with the coping saw. All saw marks should be sandpapered off, and 


HOUSE 


the entrance hole in the front cut out before putting the house together. 

Assembling 

First: Be sure all the pieces are square and the right shape and size. 

Second. Nail the two sides on the back, keeping the edges even and 
the joints tight. The back of this house fits inside of the sides as you will 
notice on the drawing, and the bottom ends of the sides and back must 
be kept even. 

Third. The front should be nailed between the two sides even with 
the outside edges, and just a little bit above where the curve starts on the 
bottom end of the sides. The curve on the top end of the sides should 
project out 1 inch from the front of the house. 

Fourth. Fit the roof on next and before nailing it in place be sure it 
fits tight, and is weather-proof. The back edge of the roof comes even 
with the back of the house and projects 1)4 inches over the sides and front 
of the house. 

Fifth. Fit the bottom of the house snugly between the sides, back and 
front, and fasten it in even with the bottom end of the front with a few 
1 inch screws. These screws can be removed, and the bottom taken out at 
housecleaning time. 

Finishing 

Before painting or staining the house, see that all nail holes are puttied, 
and all joints are even, and tight. Paint the body of the house white, and 
the roof green, or stain the house a dark brown and cover the roof with 
roofing. Do not paint or stain the inside of any of these houses. 

On account of the curved sides it will be impossible to cover this house 
with bark, but before putting the house up, put about 2 inches of fine 
chips or sawdust in the bottom. When woodpeckers make their own nests 
they always leave a certain amount of fine chips in the bottom, and cover 
this with feathers plucked from their own bodies. They do not gather any 
other nest material. 

Fasten this house to a tree about 10 or 12 feet from the ground. 


15 — 



16 — 



















































DOUBLE CHICKADEE HOUSE 


Here is a design for a chickadee house that is not only pleasing to the 
eye, but will also be attractive to these desirable birds. 

The chickadees are often known to nest in double houses and will stay 
all winter providing they are fed and sheltered. 

The upper part of this house has two rooms for the nests, while on the 
lower part a roost is provided where the birds may find shelter from the 
cold winds and stormy weather. 

The front of this house should face the south, or should be placed where 
it would be shaded in the summer and sunny in the winter. 

Material Required 

Lumber— y 2 inch cypress or white pine. 


Pieces 

1 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 


Finished Sizes—In. 
Y 2 "x 9"xl4" 
y 2 "x5y 2 ''xU'' 
y 2 "x 7y n xiiy" 
y 2 "x 8M"x12M" 
y 2 "x 5"x9" 
y 2 "x4,y 2 "x7 " 
^"x^'xlO" 


Use 

Back 

Sides 

Front 

Roof 

Bottom 

Partition 

Rod for Perch 


Hardware, Etc. 

iy inch brads. 

1 inch screws. 


Tools—Rule, pencil, square, saw, plane, hammer, brace, l / 2 and % 
inch auger bits, iy inch expansion bit, coping saw, nail set, and screw¬ 
driver. 

Construction 


Cutting Stock. Before cutting the lumber, study the drawing care¬ 
fully. Be sure you have the front and sides marked out accurately before 
starting to cut them out. The bottom edge of the front, and the curve on 
the side pieces and front, should be carefully cut out with a coping saw. 
After sawing these piece out sandpaper the saw marks from the edges so 
they will have a smooth surface for staining or painting. 

Before starting to put the house together see that you have all the 
pieces necessary, and they are the correct size, shape, and perfectly square. 

Bore the entrance, ventilation, and perch holes in the two sides before 
starting to assemble the house. 

— 17 


If you do not have an expansion bit for the entrance hole draw a iy 
inch circle, bore a hole inside the circle with a small bit, insert the coping 
saw blade, and you can cut the hole out with a saw. 

If you use the coping saw for cutting the entrance hole don’t forget to 
sandpaper the edge of the hole smooth. 

Assembling 

1. Nail the two sides on the back pieces, having the ends and edges of 
sides and back even. The back piece of this house fits between the two side 
pieces. 

2. Nail the front on the two sides, and keep the top edge of the front 
piece exactly even with the slanted top end of the sides. This part of the 
assembling must be carefully done in order to make the roof fit accurately. 

3. Fit and nail in the bottom next. The bottom must fit tight between 
the two sides, back, and front. The bottom must be nailed exactly as 
shown in drawing. 

4. Fit and nail in the partition next. It is not necessary to have the 
partition go up to the roof. 

5. Before fastening on the roof see that it fits tightly all around in order 
to keep out the wind and rain. It should be fastened to the house with a 
few one inch screws so it can be easily taken off to clean out the house. 

6. Put the perch on last. This perch is made from a piece of dowel rod 
and should be just as long as the roof. It should stick out the same distance 
on each side, and can be held in place by driving a small brad thru the front 
edge of the side. 

Finishing 

Carefully set all nails, fill all the holes with putty, and sandpaper off all 
tool marks. If any of the joints are not even they can be made even and 
smooth by sandpapering. The body of the house should be stained or 
painted a dark green. The roof and perch a dark brown. The roof will give 
better service if covered with roofing or an asphalt shingle. On account of 
the curved sides it will not be practical to attempt to cover this house with 
bark, and do not paint or stain the house on the inside. Fasten the house 
on the sheltered side of a tree about 10 or 12 feet above the ground and 
protect from the cats. 




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18 — 



































































MARTIN HOUSE 


Martins like to nest in colonies, so we must build them a house with a 
number of separate rooms if we hope to make them a home that will be 
attractive. 

In building a martin house there is no limit as to size or style of ar¬ 
chitecture that may be used. Your house may contain any number of rooms 
above four that you care to build, or it may be as plain or fancy as you 
wish to build it. 

Unless you are an experienced builder it will not be wise for you to try 
to construct a large and elaborate house, because a small and plain house 
will be just as attractive to the martins, and not as expensive to build 
as a large and fancy one. 

The drawing given in this lesson is of an eight room martin house. 


Material Required 

Lumber—White pine or cypress. 


Pieces 

1 

1 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

4 

4 


Finished Sizes—In. 

%"xl8"xl8" 

J4"xl8"xl8" 

H"x6M"xl3" 

H"x5}4"xl2" 

H"x6"xl3" 

K"x4"xl2" 

^"x9K"xl8" 

y"x5"xl2" 

y 2 "x5"5y 2 " 

y”xy"x5y 2 " 


Use 

Bottom Floor 
Upper Floor 
Lower Fronts 
Lower Sides 
Upper Fronts 
Upper Sides 
Roof Boards 
Partitions 
Partitions 
Strips 


Hardware, Etc. 

One and one-fourth inch brads. 

One inch and one and one-fourth inch screws. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, square, saw, plane, brace, 2 inch expansion bit, 
hammer, nail set, screwdriver and coping saw. 

Before cutting any stock study the drawing carefully. Cut out the large 
pieces first. The two 18 inch square bottom pieces will have to be made out 
of two or three separate pieces, either glued or fastened together with cor¬ 
rugated fasteners, as it is almost impossible to get lumber 18 inches wide. 

It is the better plan to cut out, and put together the lower part of the 


house first. Then you are not as liable to lose any of the different pieces, 
as you will be if you cut out all of the different parts before starting to as¬ 
semble them. 

Be sure to bore the entrance holes in the four front pieces, and have 
the two fronts of the top section cut the proper shape for the roof to fit on, 
before nailing the house together. 

The entrance holes must be bored very carefully from both sides, as 
the fronts of the house are liable to split. If you do not have an expansion 
bit cut the entrance holes out with a coping saw, and do not forget to sand¬ 
paper the edges of the holes after sawing. 

Assembling 

1. Before nailing the house together see that every piece is the correct 
size and shape. All ends and edges must be straight and square. 

2. Assemble the bottom section first. Nail the two sides between the 
two front pieces, keeping the outside edges even. Drive nails thru the 
front piece into the end of the side pieces. 

3. Fit and nail in the partitions next and be sure they divide the lower 
floor into four equal parts before nailing them in place. 

4. The top floor is now nailed to the bottom section by nailing down 
thru the top side of the floor into the sides, and ends of the lower section. 

If you have followed the drawings and measurements carefully there 
will be a projection oi 2y inches on the top and bottom floors all around 
the outside of the house. This makes the porch around the house for the 
young birds to light upon when learning to fly. 

5. The bottom floor is now fastened to the lower section of the house 
with 134 inch screws to allow for its removal at house cleaning time. It 
should have the same projection from the body of the house as the top floor 
has. 

6. Nail the sides on the top section between the two fronts. Be sure 
you have these pieces the correct shape and size or you will have trouble 
when you fit on the roof. 

7. Put in the partitions just as you did on the lower section. It is not 
necessary to have the partitions as high as the sides, because it makes a 
better ventilated house by leaving about one inch space on the top of the 
partitions. 

(Note)—Some bird authorities say that partitions in a martin house are 
not at all necessary. 


— 19 — 



— 20 — 








































































8. Fit the roof carefully and nail it fast to the upper section. Be sure 
the joint at the top of the roof is weather proof. If you do not cover 
the roof with roofing, nail a thin strip of wood or a strip of tin over this 
joint, this will keep the roof from leaking in case the two roof boards should 
shrink. 

9. The two one-half inch strips must be nailed to the top side of the 
top floor, three inches in from both edges, so they will fit just inside of the 
two sides of the top section. A few one inch screws put thru the bottom 
edge of the two sides into these strips will hold the house together until it 
should be taken apart to be cleaned. 

Finishing 

Paint the body of the house white, the roof and porches a dark green. 

FEEDING 

Feeding shelters are as important to build, and put up, as bird houses 
themselves. The birds that return in the early spring, are often caught in 
a few late cold snaps and sometimes snow storms; which cover the ground, 
and the food supply of the birds, who soon freeze to death because of in¬ 
sufficient food to warm their bodies, if no artificial means of feeding them 
are provided. 

A feeding shelter or two should be in every farm yard. They should 
be well built and so placed that the open side will be protected from the 
cold winds, rain and snow storms, and prowling cats. The shelter in this 
drawing is simple in design and easy to make. The curves on the sides 
may be omitted if desired, but they add a little artistic touch to the ap¬ 
pearance of the house if left on. 

A few small hooks placed in the back of the house to fasten suet on, will 
prove to be an added attraction to the birds for your feeding shelter. 
All birds like suet, wheat, cracked corn, sun flower seed, and millet. 

Material Required 

Lumber—White pine or cypress. 


Pieces 

Finished Sizes—In. 

Use 

1 

K"xl2"x20" 

Bottom 

1 

.K"x9^"x20" 

Roof 

1 

V 2 "x 8"x20" 

Roof 

2 

y 2 "xioy 2 "x9y 2 " 

Sides 

1 

y 2 "x5y 2 "xi8" 

Back 

1 

M"x8"x8" 

Bottom support 

1 

18"x20" 

Roofing 


If the roof is covered with roofing it will not need any paint. Do not forget 
to paint the bottom as it is exposed to the weather after mounting the 
house on a post. 

If the body of the house is covered with birch bark, the roof and porches 
covered with red asphalt roofing it makes a very attractive and durable 
house. 

Mount the house on a post about sixteen feet above the ground, and 
cover the post with tin or sheet iron twenty-four inches wide, about six 
feet above the ground, so the cats can’t disturb the birds. 

(Note)—If you cover the house with bark do not leave any nails stick¬ 
ing thru on the inside of the house. 

SHELTER 

Hardware and Tools 

inch brads; 1 inch screws. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, saw, plane hammer, square, coping saw, nail set. 

Construction 

Cut out each piece rough. Plane smooth on both sides, plane both edges 
straight, and both ends square. 

After squaring each piece, mark out the exact shape as shown on the 
drawing; saw and plane to the lines you have laid out on the different 
pieces. Be sure the two sides are exactly alike so the roof will fit correctly. 

Assembling 

1. Nail the back piece on the back edge of the two sides keeping the 
bottom edges even, and the sides flush with the ends of the back piece. 

2. Nail on the 9J/£ inch roof board next, allowing it to project 1 inch 
over each side and 1 inch over the back of the house. 

3. Nail on the front roof piece, but be sure you have the roof joint 
fitting perfectly tight. This piece of the roof must project 3 inches over 
the front to protect the opening from wind, and snow. 

4. Nail on the bottom; keeping it even with the back of the house, and 
having 1 inch projection on the sides, and 2 inches on the front. 

5. The bottom support which is 8 inches square should be screwed to 
the house with 1 inch screws exactly in the center on the bottom of the 
shelter. 



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— 22 — 



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Ihis makes the bottom thick enough to be fastened securely on top 
of a post. 

Finishing 

Sandpaper all joints even, putty nail holes, cover the roof with roofing, 
and paint with two coats of white, green, or brown paint. It will be a good 


idea to paint the shelter all over, as it will be a protection to the wood, and 
increase its lasting qualities. 

Place this shelter on a post with its back to the prevailing winds. Keep 
it well supplied with food in the winter, guard it from cats, and you will 
have many of the birds stay with you the year around. 


REVOLVING FEEDING SHELTER 


This shelter is designed to revolve with the wind the same as a weather 
vane. The back of the shelter will always be to the wind which keeps the 
inside perfectly dry, and affords a place to feed, that the birds readily 
take to. 

It is built on the same plan as the other shelter with the exception of 
the roof, and the two wings on the top. 


Material Required 

Lumber—White pine or cypress. 


Pieces 

1 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1 

2 

1 


Finished Sizes—In. 

K"xl4"xl8" 

K"xl2"xl8" 

V 2 "x 8"x8" 

V 2 "x 10"x8" 
K"x4"xl5" 

34"x3"xl5" 

34"x4"xl0" 

14"xl8" 


Use 

Roof 

Bottom 

Bottom support 

Sides 

Back 

Front 

Wings 

Roofing 


The two wings should be exactly alike, and also the side pieces. 

Assembling 

1. Nail the two sides on the ends of the back piece, keeping the outside 
corners, and bottom edges even. 

2. Nail front piece between the two sides even with the front, and top 
edges of the sides. 

3. Nail on the bottom allowing y 2 inch projection on the back, 1 inch 
on the sides and 1 y 2 inches in the front. Next screw on the bottom support 
with a 1 inch screw in each corner. Have this piece exactly in the center 
of the bottom. 

4. Bore a 34 inch hole in the center of the bottom clear thru bottom 
support. This hole is to put the large screw thru into the top of the post, so 
the shelter can revolve in the wind. 

5. Fit the roof on carefully, and fasten into place, cover the roof with 

roofing before fastening on the wings. „ 

6. The two wings are fastened to the roof by screwing up thru the under 
side of the roof into the bottom edge of wings with three 1 inch screws. 
Follow the drawing carefully while putting this shelter together. 


Hardware and Tools 

\y 2 inch brads; six 1 inch and 1 3 inch screws. 

Tools—Rule, pencil, square, saw, plane, hammer, screwdriver coping 
saw. Nail set and brace and bit to bore screw holes. 

Construction * 

Follow the same rules for construction that are furnished for shelter 
on the preceding page, except the wings on the roof should be cut out 
just as shown in the drawing, and the curves on wings, and side pieces 
should be sandpapered smooth after sawing out with coping saw. 


Finishing 

Finish according to directions given for the preceding shelter. 

Screw this shelter on top of a post that has been sawed off square, 
using a 3 inch screw, and place an iron washer under the head of the screw, 
and between the top of the post and the bottom of the house. Don’t make 
the screw too tight or shelter will not move when the wind blows. 

These shelters should be placed near the house, where it is convenient 
to replenish the stock of food. A great deal of enjoyment can be had if the 
shelter is situated so you can watch the birds feed on stormy winter days, 
from the window. 


— 23 — 



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— 24 — 























HOW TO BUILD A KITE THAT WILL FLY 


Before starting to build a kite it is well to know a few of the funda¬ 
mental things about the size, shape, and materials that are required to make 
a kite that will fly successfully. 

The most important part is the framework. This should be made of wood 
that is both light and strong. The different pieces of the frame work must 
also be uniform in thickness, width and length, because a piece that is 
thicker or wider at one end than it is at the other will over-balance the 
kite and cause it to dart to the ground and be broken. 

Split bamboo is the best wood for kite making, altho it is very difficult 
to fasten the joints together. White pine, white cedar, yellow pine, spruce, 
and cypress are probably the best woods that can be procured in this 
locality for making kites. 

Putting the string around the frame work is the next important thing. 
The distance from the top of the upright piece to the end of the cross piece 
must be the same on both sides, and the same is true of the bottom part of 
the kite. If the sides of the frame work are strung unequally the kite will 
pull off to one side and dart, or will not fly at all. The best cord to string a 
kite with is a piece of small, hard twisted fish line. 

Next to be considered is the covering. Silk of course is the ideal cover, 
but a good quality of strong tissue paper answers the purpose just as well. 
If you build a large kite a good strong wrapping paper will do for the cover, 
or a piece of cambric is also an excellent material to use; but if used it 
should never be put on the bias, as it is liable to unequal stretching and will 
unbalance the poise of the kite. 

The bridle, or bellyband, is the next important thing about a kite. All 
kites must have a bridle as it is impossible to fly a kite with the kite line 
tied directly to the kite frame. The kite is dependent on the bridle for the 


TWO STICK 

Material Required 

Lumber—White pine, yellow pine, spruce, cypress or basswood. 

Pieces Finished Sizes—In. Use 

1 Cross piece 

1 34"x;hi"x36" Upright piece 


proper distribution of pull by the kite line, and it also gives the proper tilt 
of the exposed surface of the kite to the breeze. The kite line may be 
fastened to the bridle a little above the normal point to make it fly directly 
overhead, and to make it fly low fasten the kite line below the normal point. 

The kite line should be light and strong; for small kites a four ply wrap¬ 
ping string is most commonly used and is very satisfactory for kites up to 
three feet. The hard twisted four-ply fishing twine is the best and of course 
the strongest, but is rather expensive. It does not tangle up as easily 
as the cheap string and will not burn the hands when letting out the line. 

A reel to wind the kite line on is very useful, but is not necessary. It 
makes the kite line easier to hold, keeps it from getting tangled, and the 
line can be taken in, or let out much faster than by the old fashioned string 
wind. 

The tail comes next and is very important as kites having flat surfaces 
exposed to the breeze will not keep their poise unless balanced at the 
bottom by the addition of a tail. The tail can be made of a string with a 
number of pieces of paper 4 inches wide and 8 inches long, fastened to it 
about every eight inches apart. At the bottom end of the tail string a few 
strips of cloth can be fastened for weight. In a strong wind a longer tail 
is needed than in a light wind. If your kite is unsteady when starting to 
fly pull it down and adjust the bridle or the tail. Sometimes it will require 
two or three adjustments before it will fly steadily. 

If your kite starts to dive to the ground let go of the kite line just before 
it strikes. This will allow the kite to flutter down, and it will not strike the 
ground hard enough to be broken. 

The two kites in the drawings are simple two and three stick flat kites 
which any boy can make with few tools, and a little time and patience. 


FLAT KITE 

Hardware, Etc. 


25 


One-half inch brads. 

Strong twine. 

Tissue paper or cambric 253^x38 inches. 



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— 26 — 


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Construction 

1. When making the two sticks for the frame be sure they are straight, 
the proper thickness, width and length. 

2. Fasten the cross piece on the upright eight inches from the top end 
of one upright and exactly in the center of the cross piece with small brads. 

3. Start at the top and put a good strong string around the edge of the 
kite frame and fasten it at the top where you started from. Now is the 
time to get the distances equal from point to point. When you have this 
adjusted, take a short piece of string and lash the ends of the kite sticks 
to the string around the edge of the kite. This will hold all the ends in the 
proper position and they are not so liable to get out of place while you are 
putting on the cover. The center joint where the two sticks cross can be 
strengthened by wrapping a piece of string around them, and covering the 
string with glue. 

4. To cover the kite place the cover on a table top or floor, lay the kite 
frame on the cover and cut out the cover one inch larger all around than 
the kite frame. 


5. Glue the cover to the sticks, fold the edge over one inch and glue fast 
to the string around the kite frame. 

To strengthen the outside edge of the kite glue a piece of paper two 
inches wide all around the edge of the kite frame. 

To fasten on the bridle punch a few small holes in the cover so the 
bridle string can be tied to the kite frame at the points shown in the draw¬ 
ing. It is rather a hard matter to give the exact length of the bridle, as the 
weight of the materials of which the kite is constructed often vary to such 
an extent that it takes a few trial flights to determine the exact length of 
the bridle and the proper point to fasten on the kite line. When the proper 
point for fastening the kite line to the bridle has been determined tie the 
line in a knot that will not slip. If the kite rises steadily but too slowly, 
remove some of the tail. If it rises quickly but wobbly, add more weight 
to the tail. Keep experimenting and don’t bfecome discouraged if your 
first kite is a failure. 

Success comes in cans. 

Failure in can’ts. 


TAILLESS KITE 


The tailless kite is the most popular of all kites, because it is easy to 
make, flies in a very light breeze and is the steadiest kite in the air. 

These kites can be made any size from five inches up to ten feet in 
height. 

Such a kite as this has to be accurately made. The two sticks should al¬ 
ways be the same length, and the frame should be covered with cloth. 

This is the best kite to fly where there are trees, wires and houses, be¬ 
cause it rises quickly into the air and has no tail to become tangled on any 
of these obstructions. 

There are several types of tailless kites, but the two stick kite shown in 
the drawing is easy to make, and is a sure flier. 


Material Required 

Lumber—Yellow pine, spruce, white cedar or cypress. 


Pieces 

1 

1 

1 


Finished Sizes—In. 
Vs"xy 2 "x 30" 
Vs"xV 2 "x 30" 

3" 


Use 

Upright 
Cross piece 
Brace stick 


Hardware, Etc. 

One-half inch brads. 

Strong wrapping twine. 

Piece of cambric lining, 32 inches square. 

Construction 

1. Before putting the framework of this kite together be sure the cross¬ 
piece and upright pieces are straight, and the same length and width and 
thickness. If one stick is heavier or larger than the other it may overbalance 
the kite and make it unsteady while it is in the air. 

2. Cut notches in the ends of upright and cross pieces for the string that 
goes around the edge of the kite. (See detail.) 

3. Place the cross piece on the upright eight inches from the top end, 
and fasten with two small brads. Lash it securely into place with a piece 
of string wound diagonally across the joint. (See detail of cross joint.) Be 
sure the exact center of cross piece is fastened to the upright. 

4. The frame is now ready for stringing. This string should be a stout 
piece of fishing line and long enough to reach around the outer edge of the 
framework. It must be drawn up tightly and placed in the notches that 
are cut in the ends of the two sticks. 


— 27 — 



— 28 — 





























5. Now divide the distances equally from the top of the upright to the 
ends of the cross piece and from the bottom of the upright to the ends of 
the cross piece. Be sure to have the distance between these points exactly 
the same on both sides of the kite. When you have these points adjusted 
fasten them to the outside string with another cord to keep from slipping. 

6. Now the frame is ready for the cover. Take a piece of colored cambric 
lining thirty-two inches square, lay it out on a table and place the frame on 
top. Cut the cover one inch larger all around than the frame. A tailless 
kite cover has to be put on loosely to allow for air pockets, so instead of 
stretching the cover tightly, just turn one-half inch of the edge over the 
outside string and sew it fast. This will leave plenty of looseness for bag¬ 
ging of the cover. 

BOX 

In a wind that is too strong for other kites a box kite will fly safely. 

These kites are hard pullers and should be fastened to a good strong 
kite line. 

It is also a good plan to have a reel to wind the kite line on, also a pair 
of gloves to keep the line from burning the hands when letting it out. 

It is great f un to send a paper parachute up the kite line on a bent pin. 
When it is a short distance from the kite it can be released by a quick jerk 
on the line. Sometimes it will sail for miles in a good breeze if it is released 
from a great height. 

A good parachute can be made from a tissue paper napkin with a thread 
twelve inches long tied to each corner and weighted on the end with a 
shingle nail. Put a bent pin in the center of the napkin and place it on the 
kite line. 

The breeze will carry it up the line towards the kite. It can be released 
at any time by a quick jerk at the kite line. 

Material Needed 

Lumber—Spruce, yellow pine, white pine or basswood. 

Pieces Finished Sizes—In. Use 

4 Uprights 

4 M'W'x21" Cross pieces 

Hardware, Etc. 

One-half inch brads. 

Strong twine. . , • n ■ i , 

Two pieces of cambric lining eleven inches wide, sixty-five inches long. 

Construction 

1. First make the four upright sticks and be very careful that they are 


7. On the back of the kite tie a strong piece of string to one end of the 
cross piece. Pull this string tightly until the cross piece is bowed out about 
three inches in the center and tie it fast to the other end. Place the small 
brace between this string and the cross piece for support. (See drawing.) 

8. The bridle is now attached to the bottom of the upright and just 
above the cross piece. The bridle must be long enough to reach the out¬ 
side end of the cross piece. This is the best point to fasten the kite line 
onto the bridle. If the kite does not fly successfully the first time, adjust 
the bridle or bow the cross piece a little more. It may take a few trial 
flights to get all the adjustments correct. Be sure to follow the drawing 
carefully. With the right materials and a little patience you will be suc¬ 
cessful. 

KITE 

all the same thickness, width and length. Make sticks exact size as given. 

2. Next make the cross pieces and follow the same method as used in 
making the uprights. These cross sticks must have a notch one-fourth inch 
by one-fourth inch cut in the center of each end for the upright pieces to 
fit in. (See detail.) 

3. Find the exact center of these cross pieces and put them together 
with a couple of half inch brads and lash the joint with string as shown. 

4. Cut a notch in each end of the four upright pieces for the top and 
bottom string. (See detail.) Put upright pieces in the notches on ends of 
cross braces and tie a string around the top and bottom edge of the up¬ 
rights. The cross braces are set inside the frame four inches from the ends 
of the uprights. 

5. Measure the distance around the frame, and cut the cloth one inch 
longer to allow for the seam when sewing the two ends together. The cloth 
is cut eleven inches wide to allow for a half inch hem on each edge. Make 
these two cloth bands small enough so the cross braces will fit tightly be¬ 
tween the uprights. This will allow the bands to be stretched around the 
frame, which is one of the important things about making a good box kite. 
It is a good idea to glue these bands to the edges of the four upright pieces. 

6. The bridle is attached to the top end of one of the upright pieces. 
This makes the kite fly diagonally in the air. If you attach the bridle to 
two of the uprights the kite will fly horizontally. 

This kite does not need a tail and if carefully made it is a sure flier. 
Before you put this kite up on a windy day be sure and test the kite line, 
as this kite is a strong puller, and may be lost or broken if the kite line 
gives way while it is in the air. 


— 29 — 



To help develop ownership among farm boys and girls, Successful Farming conducts a Boys’ and Girls’ 
Bureau which works in cooperation with the established club organizations of the states and nation. 

This bureau keeps in touch with the federal, state and county club leaders, and loans money on personal 
notes to farm boys and girls who need financial assistance for the purchase of pigs or calves or other prop¬ 
erty in order to join the club work. 

Over $100,000.00 has been loaned thus far to 5,000 boys and girls. They have produced food and feed 
amounting in value to several times this amount, and have acquired valuable business training. They 
now have a real interest in farm life, and will make the farm their home. The pictures above show a few 
boys who have been helped thru this loan service. 

A copy of the plan will be mailed on request. 


O w 


A loan helped Lo well Morgan Amon Allen, Alabama Hugh Dexter, Minnesota Jas. W. Porter, Missouri 

rship for Young Farm People 


— 30 — 


SUCCESSFUL FARMING, Des Moines, Iowa 











FARM BOYS’ AND GIRLS’ LEADER 



Farm Boys’ and Girls’ Leader and Club Achievements 
was started with the first issue in January, 1919. The 
chief purpose of the publication is to promote the Boys’ 
and Girls’ Club movement over the United States. It 
supplies a publication for the boys and girls of the 
farm, reports the activities of clubs and club members 


in all sections of the country, reports unusual 
achievements of boys and girls here and there, 
keeps the farm children in touch with the county, 
state and national club leaders, and promotes the 
general welfare of the boys and girls of the farms. 

Thousands of boys and girls are finding this paper 
a source of material aid and great encouragement. 
Each issue of Farm Boys’and Girls’Leader contains 

Splendid Human Interest Stories 
Inspirational Fiction Stories 
Games, Songs, Puzzles, etc. 

Stories of Boys’ and Girls’ Achievements 
Articles by Boys and Girls Themselves 
Boys and Girls Club News 

Information about our Loan Service Plan for Boys and Girls 

Is it not worth while for you to invest 25 cents 
for a year’s subscription to this splendid paper ? 
Can you afford NOT to have this helpful juvenile 
magazine that will help you in your club and farm 
work. C. Better mail remittance now for a year’s 
subscription, and you will find that quarter the 
best investment you ever made—or 2 years for 50c. 


FARM BOYS’ AND GIRLS’ LEADER, Des Moines, Iowa 









WHEN YOU’RE A MAN- 

You will want to be a success. You will want to be known as a prosperous farmer 
who is well posted on his business. 

You will want to be a leader in your community. You will want to serve society in 
the biggest possible way. 

You will want to be happy as well as prosperous. 

WHILE YOU’RE A BOY - 

You can and should prepare yourself for the bigger things of later years. 

“Where there’s a will, there’s a way.” Right now you can pretty nearly determine 
your future by making up your mind that you WILL achieve success and live a use¬ 
ful life. These things will bring happiness. 

SUCCESSFUL FARMING - 

Can assist you now. Successful Farming is a text book and guide on country life 
and country business. It is a liberal education for those who will make use of it. 

Read every number of Successful Farming — you will profit by doing so. 

SUCCESSFUL FARMING DES MOINES, IOWA 


— 32 — 








